Sass & Veracity

Banana Caramel Cream Eclairs: Daring, but...

When I saw this month's Daring Baker challenge posed by the extremely talented hosts Meeta of What's for Lunch, Honey?, and Tony of Olive Juice, (you should see their sites -- Oh, my goodness...) I thought, great!  No problem.  We were given the freedom to explore the classic eclair with a recipe by none other than Pierre Herme -- and Chocolate Eclairs to boot.  Perfect, if you ask me.  The first time I made pate-a choux was when I was in junior high and it's never posed a problem until now.  It figures.

Okay, so honestly, there was that crocquembouche one year...

I know the the flour goes into the butter which has been melted in the liquid -- this time equal measures of water and milk.  I know the eggs go in one at a time and that you beat them like hell, watching the mixture go from globby to smooth.  Velvety.  I have seriously weak wrists, but I always make pate-a-choux by hand because I actually enjoy working with it.

But sometimes it really doesn't make a difference if you know these things, because well, Murphy shows up when I least want him to.  Like this time.  That's his job.

Maybe I should have spent more time in the Daring Bakers' Kitchen scouring the non-procrastinators' comments and questions.  After all, that would be the whole point of a forum, right?  But did I?  No.  So was I able to find out whether others noticed something strange about the cooking time?  No.

I used a fluted tip to pipe the soft dough onto my baking sheets, making plump little fingers lined up diagonally -- 24 of them.  But when the "about 20 minutes" of suggested baking time came and went, and I had diligently timed and repositioned pans and placed a wooden spoon in the door of my oven like directed, then examined the "puff" and scrutinized the color, and poked for "firmness" and even broke one open to peer inside, I knew that there was no way 20 minutes was enough.

I referred to other recipes for pate-a-choux to see what the differences were just in case I'd missed something -- like pate-a-choux isn't made now has it always has been.  I struggled not to think about the idea that I'd learned to make "cream puff dough" from an old Betty Crocker cookbook and you couldn't get any more basic than that.  So I watched those chubby fingers of pate-a-choux re-puff after I checked them and decided to bake them longer, and longer, and longer.  I lost count, but can estimate that they were in the oven about 35 minutes total, and still, they weren't quite as I thought they should be.

The interiors were far too moist. They were not such chubby fingers after all.  They were flat.

And if that wasn't bad enough?

Let's.  Talk.  Filling.  Shall we?  *Let's not and say we did...*

I thought caramel with bananas and chocolate glaze would be heavenly.  A few almonds sprinkled over it all.  Sooooooo....I experimented with Sherry Yard's Whipped Caramel Cream.  I figured since the Daring Bakers have done caramel until the cows come home and I even longer, that this, too, would be a cake walk. What a total fat head.

Well.  After whipping the heavy cream with the creme fraiche and other ingredients, the cooled caramel sauce never quite allowed me to "carefully" fold it in.  Somehow, I knew this.  I knew that it wouldn't work since I also know that folding anything as thick as peanut butter into fluffy cream (hahahahaha, Sherry Yard -- you're just kidding us, aren't you?) would be a complete miracle.  I'd thought of making a stabilized whipped cream, knowing that it could work, but I'm usually game to try anything once, even when I suspect something is wrong.  Certainly, it couldn't have been moi....right?  After all, I'm not Sherry Yard.  There just wasn't enough whipped cream to hold up the density of that caramel that was so decadently, deliciously spiked with lemon, and just the thought of the creme fraiche with it had me nearly swooning while thinking of the final taste.

But it began to separate, so I decided to whip up quite a bit more heavy cream, then slowly incorporate the almost broken caramel creme, and it held up.  But the sacrifice was huge.  There was no deep caramelly flavor that would have been in the original.  I ended up with an ivory colored whipped cream that I'm not sure I'd think was caramel flavored if I hadn't made it myself.

But, I persisted and put some cute eclairs together anyway, and we each ate a few, experiencing what always happens when I've bitten into an eclair -- everything squishes out the sides.

Such a beautifully decadent and glorious mess after only one small bite, don't you think?

When I asked my hunkster what he tasted, the response was, "Chocolate....and bananas."  No caramel.  But after he left, I drizzled some of the caramel sauce I made the whipped filling with over the top and oh, my goodness.  It was heavenly.  Fresh peaches and strawberries were also nice, but the chocolate glaze I made was too strong for their flavor, in my opinion.  Pretty, though.  A better idea would have been to leave the chocolate off of the top, and either sprinkle powdered sugar alone, or drizzle caramel over -- especially with the peaches.

   

Clearly, I need to whip up some more pate-a-choux so that my ego doesn't stay bruised for long.

To take a gander at 12 million more eclairs, please visit the other Daring Bakers.  For the recipe I used to make the caramel filling...

Dry Rubbed Steak and Grilled Corn Salad a Perfect Combo

We see them all the time -- those recipes on the back of boxes in our pantry, or the inside of a chocolate wrapper, or an herb package label.  Do you ever try them?  I do, but it depends on what they are.

Like the one on the back of the Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt box I noticed after my husband said he liked rubs on his grilled meat more than marinade.  It always surprises me when he takes the time to mention something like that because he's pretty accommodating when it comes to eating whatever I feel like cooking, rarely asking for anything in particular. 

We weren't involved in any discussion about dinner plans, or watching a food related show -- he just mentioned it while he was standing at the sink fiddling with his teabag before leaving for work one day.  Go figure.  Sure, I'd made and used rubs before, but thinking about it, knew I used marinades more frequently. 

So how perfect was it that when I went to fill the salt dish that day, Bruce Aidell's Secret Spice Rub,
(which clearly wasn't secret if it was published on the back of the salt box), was staring right at me?  I'd say pretty perfect.  No leafing through cookbooks, no Googling rubs.  I was done and the hunkster would be happy.

By the time I was finished putting the rub together, it wasn't Bruce's any longer.  As usual, I didn't have exactly all his ingredients, so made some changes.  Big surprise, right?  Life is never boring around here.

If you haven't decided what's on the menu for the Labor Day weekend, this is quick and easy.

Kelly's Not So Secret Rub

1/3 c. kosher salt
2 T coarsely ground pepper
2 T brown sugar
3 T smoked paprika
2 T chili powder
1 T dried sage leaves
1 tsp. herbs de provence
1/2 tsp. allspice
2 tsp. fennel
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. dried tarragon
2 T dried minced garlic

Combine all ingredients and mix well.  Store in a well-sealed jar or ziplock bag.

To use, sprinkle generously on both sides of beef and rub into meat.  Wrap meat well and place in the fridge for at least an hour.  The longer it sits, the more intense the flavor of the rub will be.

Grill depending on the cut of meat chosen, and thickness of that meat.  I used pieces of thin cut round steak labeled as for "carne asada," which I hadn't seen before.  And since the price was right, it ended up in my basket.  It was quick to grill, only about 4 minutes on each side, if that.

 

Serve with a nice crunchy Grilled Corn Salad like this one...

Chopped romaine
Sliced radishes
Chunks of fresh tomatoes
Sliced red onion
Cucumber
Two cobs of corn
Feta
Cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
3 T extra virgin olive oil
2 pinches salt

Rub the corn with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.  Grill just until kernels begin to brown and remove to cool.  When it's cool enough to be handled, cut kernels from the cobs and set aside.

On a large platter, arrange the chopped romaine.  Add the chunks of tomato, cucumber, and red onions, then grilled corn.  Sprinkle over the radishes, some feta, and finish up with a bit of chopped cilantro.

For the dressing, squeeze the lime into a small jar and add 3 T of extra virgin olive oil.  Stir rapidly with a fork, add a couple pinches of salt, taste to correct flavor and pour over salad.

To serve, grill some sandwich rolls, place a large piece of steak over the entire roll, then pile on the salad.

Now, chew your way to happiness.

Notes:  This is about as loosey goosey as I get with recipes.  I had the meat in the freezer and knew it would work just fine for the rub.  Just a hint of sweetness, the chili not overpowering, the taragon surprisingly pleasant since I'm not a fan.  Plus, the recipe makes a ton, so you can experiment with ribs, shrimp, or chicken.  It would be terrific on a slow grilled pork roast, too.

I didn't set out to make sandwiches of this, but it just seemed right.  The crunchy cool flavors of the salad were perfect for the spiciness of the meat and everything stayed loaded on the bun, believe it or not.  All in all, a satisfying meal.

And for what it's worth...

We have salad with nearly every meal we eat, so you'd think my fridge would be full of salad dressing.  With the exception of a bottle of Hidden Valley Ranch my son requests because he likes to dip his chips in it, there is no bottled dressing.  I stopped buying it years ago because the over seasoned flavor dominated anything it was poured over.  Plus, the ingredient list left quite a bit to be desired:  high fructose corn syrup on my salad?  No thanks!   

When I make salad dressing, it's basically either lemon or lime and olive oil, just as I've written above.  From there, I alter it depending on what kind of salad we're having, or what the salad will be served with.  I've added honey, mustard, a bit of balsamic vinegar, basil oil, roasted pepper oil, grapeseed oil, garlic, herbs...the list is endless.  It takes so little time and is so worth it because it tastes better, and is more healthy.

One more thing...

I honestly didn't realize who Bruce Aidell was.  Even though I've purchased his brand of sausage many, many times, I never put two and two together.  Now I know.  Last again, I'm sure.    

Two Berry Muffin Bliss and a Story

It's still not quite 10am here, so grab a cup of coffee and a muffin.  If you're lucky, you have one that's as delicious as mine.  But I'll get to that later...

I finally decided to change my photo in the sidebar.  I started to think that maybe people didn't get it -- that it was never meant to be something serious considering the sarcastic human I am. 

When I started blogging, I didn't begin in Foodland.  I actually just needed to write, so started a blog that has nothing to do with food. *Can you even imagine?*  A good friend and I had made a commitment to begin a diet and exercise program, though, so it seemed like a separate blog (this one) would be perfect to discuss truly scintillating topics such as, "How to make tasty egg white omelets," or "Know your hamburger:  the hidden nutrients in America's favorite sandwich."  Well, not quite, but almost.

It was actually quite a challenge to write here because I was trying to do something that didn't feel like me. Not the cooking -- the writing.  I was used to just letting my opinions fly, and this didn't quite seem the place to do that since most of them have nothing to do with food.  Well, fifty percent, anyway.  Clearly, I've warmed up to the concept since then and have no trouble whatsoever being a complete smart ass when the occasion calls for it, or the weather is just right.

But what about the old photo?  It came about as the result of a post I did last year on having my hair cut after nearly a year had gone by.  It had gotten long and shaggy, and my roots were seriously in need of attention.  After years of having my hair done routinely every seven weeks ( I know.  High maintenance.), I had begun experimenting with dying my own hair, so not only was it long, it was lots of different shades -- grey included.  Finally, I had my hair done, and being the snark I am, decided to dig up some old celeb photos, and mimic them.  I am quite easily entertained.  I guess you had to be there...

So why did one of them end up here? *like this is news?*  That's the semi-practical aspect of the whole thing.  I wanted a small photo that I could use as an avatar here and there, and it was easy to cut the least corny one from the four -- or two, since I'm not Shelly Long, and could never come close to being Grace Kelly.  Plus, my crazy sister used to call her oldest daughter "Betty," even though her daughter's name isn't anything like Betty.  As in, "Come on, Betty.  We're going to be late to softball practice..."  Yes, my sister also has a snark streak a mile wide.  And then we all know about my childhood obsession with Betty Crocker, right?  And how I have that old cookbook my mother received as a blushing bride in the mid-Fifties?  It just seemed too perfect to have that corny photo of me on this blog in much the same way that a ficititious Betty Crocker's face appeared on a cookbook all those years.

   

Make sense?  Great!  Now watch it change.  Frequently.  In the meantime, how about a muffin?

I just happened to find Susan's Dos Berries Muffins at A Slice of Sueshe while making my rounds last week. I found Susan at Ben's What's Cooking? because she, unlike the complete slacker that I am, submitted them to Ben's bi-weekly I love baking event.  They looked so amazing, I was crazed compelled to make a special trip to the store to get berries so I could make them the next morning.  Although I chose blackberries and raspberries for mine because they were on sale, and used Greek yogurt (0% fat) instead of sour cream because my sour cream was (is always) moldy, I think the general idea is that two berries are better than one.  So true.  And the recipe?  Mmmm...totally qualifies as excellent because of my all important "not too sweet" factor.

My son and I enjoyed them warm from the oven with berries still steaming.  They're outstanding plain so you can enjoy the fresh tartness of the berries, or with butter slathered under a drizzle of honey on the second one, because we each had to sample two.

Pure bliss, and many thanks to Susan for the great recipe!  This one is going to the top of my ever expanding muffin list.   

Do you have a muffin recipe you think I'd enjoy?  Let me know!

 

Roast Lemon Chicken with Garlic & Olives

I don't really know how to truss a chicken.  At most, if I've attempted to do so, it has only been when I've stuffed the chicken and so I half-heartedly wrap cotton string around the legs a few times to keep things in. 

Any number of resources are available that will explain why I should truss my chicken, how said trussing will affect the final product, and of course, show me how to truss effectively.  To be honest, this whole subject must have been determined by destiny. 

Some people are destined to be famous and make millions, or influence hoards of willing subjects thereby changing the direction of humanity for the better.  I am destined to be someone influenced by clever and charming Foodie I happened onto a few days ago after I'd already made the decision to thaw the eight-dollar non-organic, mass produced big box grocery-store-bought Foster Farms roaster in my freezer and had some semblance of a recipe in mind.  I wasn't looking for a lesson on trussing, but I got one anyway.  And  must have been a good lesson, because I'd read Thomas Keller's viewpoint on the importance of trussing not too long ago, but wasn't compelled to give it a go.  Of course, I didn't have a chicken in my sink at the time.  Waiting.  So thanks, Matt of Wrightfood.  I enjoyed the video and your blog.

I'm not sure I was perfectly successful at the trussing (you're not supposed to have a big "X" across the most delicate part of the chicken...), but I enjoyed myself, and will be looking into this business of trussing, adding it to the mental list of things I should do, but don't, and then chide myself over mercilessly.  Our roast chicken was, however, very moist and flavorful with little or no effort.

There are quite a few variations on Chicken with Olives that I've come across, so I can say that they've all influenced my version one way or another -- without the trussing.

Roast Lemon Chicken with Garlic & Olives

1 whole chicken with innards removed from the cavity
zest of one lemon
juice of one lemon
3 T extra virgin olive oil
1/3 c. rosemary, parsley, & thyme
2 heads of garlic, cloves separated and peeled
3/4 c. chicken broth
1/2 c. cerignola olives (large green), seeded
salt & pepper

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

Zest the lemon completely.  Then juice it and quarter it.

In a small bowl, mix lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil and herbs.  Set aside.

Pat the chicken dry after rinsing it -- inside as well.  Liberally sprinkle inside and out with salt and cracked pepper.  Sprinkle some of the herb mixture into the cavity, then add the lemon pieces. 

Truss the chicken, and according to this source, "you'll have a better looking bird."

Place the chicken in a small roaster or cast iron skillet and sprinkle the remainder of the herb mixture over it, patting it into the skin.

Sprinkle the garlic cloves around the chicken.

Roast the chicken for 18-20 min. per pound and check for doneness by piercing a thigh and looking for opaque meat and clear juice or use an instant read thermometer inserted in the thigh that reads a USDA recommended 165 degrees F.  About an hour for an average sized bird.

Remove the chicken from the roaster when done and place on a platter, tented with foil.

 

Pour the chicken broth into the pan and over medium-high heat stir, scraping up any brown bits in the pan.  Add the olives and cook until they're warm.

Carve the chicken, and serve, passing the olive sauce.  The taste is one of our very favorites.

Notes:

Cerignola olives can often be found at the olive bar in many grocery stores.  They're mild tasting olives, and not as briny as some.  In other words, they don't make the inside of your cheeks twinge when you eat them.  They have a pleasant fruity taste like, well, good olive oil.  They are usually unseeded, but they're so big, I cut the cheeks off them just like you would a mango.  It works.  I can't always find them, so have used other green olives instead  -- except "Spanish olives" with pimientos stuffed in them.  I like them, just not for this dish.

You can have fun with different combinations of herbs like cilantro, or oregano, or add some shallots.  Use your imagination and choose what you enjoy. 

If you don't want to peel all that garlic, purchase it in bulk already peeled.  I sort of like peeling garlic.  It's soothing.  Go figure.  Of course when I don't have the time, I smash the garlic, skins and all, with a bench scraper, and the peels come right off.  You'll just have squashed garlic instead of pretty cloves.

This chicken is excellent with mashed potatoes, quartered and simmered until fork tender with peelings on.  Add some buttermilk and a bit of butter and mash some more, but leave a few chunks.  Season with salt and pepper.

After feeding the three of us, there was enough chicken to have pasta with the sauce for lunch the next day, and club sandwiches for dinner.  You'll see...

 

Nectarine Ginger Shortcakes

Years ago, one of my students gave me a gift certificate to a bookstore as a parting gift for the school year.  And with it, I purchased a tiny book called Biscuits and Scones:  62 Recipes from Breakfast Biscuits to Homey Desserts by Elizabeth Alston.  Until Sunday, I'd never made another biscuit or shortcake recipe because those recipes are the very best.

Until Sunday.

When it comes to the perfect shortcake recipe, I think it should be only slightly sweet since it's going to have macerated berries poured over each piece.  It should have a sturdy exterior with a pleasant bite -- almost a crunch.  The center is more dense and very nearly like a sponge that will soak up the juice of the berries without getting mushy.  A bit obsessive, yes? 

But Sunday, after the BBQ Beef Sandwiches with that amazing crunchy Coleslaw with Bacon and Blue Cheese, we had Nectarine Shortcake make with a different recipe.  The ginger called for in the original recipe from this August's issue of Bon Appetit, which I cooked the hell out of, caught my eye.  In my recent kitchen reorganization, I unearthed a bag of crystallized ginger that I swear I bought two years ago, so now seemed like it was free.  Ridiculous reasoning, I know, but it's kind of like finding money in the pocket of a coat you haven't worn since last winter, right?  The other thing that caught my eye about the recipe was the addition of ginger ale.  No milk.  Well, not as much as the recipe I've been using.   

Of course I'd like to say that I made this recipe exactly the way it was written, but I somehow forgot to increase the amount of butter along with the other ingredients since I was making more than what the recipe called for. 

I'm sure Alton Brown would have something to say about the chemistry of the missing butter, but they turned out famously.  Crunchy tops, easy to split, and very nice with nectarines that have been macerated in quite a bit less sugar than what the recipe called for.  Some lime juice splashed in for good measure was almost perfect.  I'd have added some basil to it all if we'd not had some younger people at the table who wouldn't try the dessert if there were green shreds in it -- but next time.

And yes, there will be a next time.

These are outstanding!

Nectarine Ginger Shortcakes
makes 8 good-sized shortcakes

3 c. all purpose flour
2/3 c. plus 4 T sugar, divided
4-1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 c. butter (salted) chilled and cut into chunks
2/3 c. crystallized ginger, chopped finely, divided in half
3/4 c. ginger ale
5 T heavy cream
6 nectarines, peelings on, cut into chunks
juice from one lime
whipped heavy cream for serving

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F and line a baking sheet with parchment or silicone.

Add 2/3 c. sugar, flour, and baking powder to a  medium bowl and whisk to mix ingredients.  Add the cold chunks of butter next, and using your fingers, pinch the butter into the dry ingredients until it is evenly distributed and looks like oatmeal.  Add the ginger and mix well with your fingers.

Add the ginger ale and 3 T of heavy cream.  (There will be some bubbling...)  Mix lightly until all dry ingredients are wet and the batter begins to clump.

Pour out mixture onto a work surface and form into a crude roll that can be cut into 8 even-sized disks.

Even out disks by patting and place on the baking sheet.

Mix 2 T cream with 2 T sugar and brush over the tops of the disks.

Bake 25 minutes or until puffed, golden brown, and a skewer inserted in the middle is removed clean.  Let cool briefly on the baking pan, then remove to a rack.  Serve warm, or at room temperature.  (If made ahead, store in a well-sealed container and enjoy the next day

While the shortcakes are baking, in a medium bowl, mix nectarines with 2 T sugar, add the remaining 1/3 c. ginger, then squeeze the juice of 1 lime over.  Set aside, and toss occasionally to coat nectarines with the syrup.

To serve, partially split each shortcake with a fork, spoon some nectarines and syrup over the bottom of each, close, dollop some whipped cream over, and top with more nectarines and syrup if you choose.

Notes:

• The shortcakes will spread out much like scones and touch as they bake, but are easily separated and retain their shape.
• The ginger is so very lovely in this dessert.  Clearly, there was a reason my ginger was lost for a couple of years in my cupboard waiting for this recipe. 
• I'll be tempted to add back the butter when I next try these just to see what happens.  You know, because a girl can never have too many calories in her baked goods.
• Sans potentially picky-eaters, there will definitely be basil in this next time, some mascarpone in the cream, and the nectarines will be grilled.  If you haven't tried them before, the caramelized sugar is amazing.  And if you don't have a grill, then whip out a panini pan -- it works, too.
• The shortcakes are great the next day, although the tops soften a bit.  I'm thinking it's that heavy cream on the top.  Usually, a bit of low-fat milk goes on my shortcakes, but this was too interesting to pass up.

BBQ Beef Sandwiches with Bacon Cheese Slaw

Nothing like a little blogging break, huh?  It wasn't planned, exactly, but the combination of finally moving my Mac back up to the office from where it sat for a few weeks on the kitchen counter, and a very busy weekend left me completely not interested in climbing the stairs to even check email for the past few days. 

We celebrated my middle son's birthday last Thursday, then went to the races at Del Mar with my mother and father-in-law for a belated Father's Day present.  Although we make it to the races at least once each year, we'd never made reservations at one of the restaurants in the grand stand so really enjoyed having someone take our orders for drinks and food.  Plus, my husband won big twice (pigs must have been flying that day...) so that made things even better.  Saturday we met friends for dinner downtown and then enjoyed the Summer Pops at the embarcadero -- courtesy of a client who couldn't make it that evening.  We were so busy talking on our walk from the restaurant to the performance, we sort of got lost, and had to hire a couple of those bicycle taxis to get us back on track.  Fun, but too much money.  I don't know how those guys stay in business.  Finally, Sunday, I made a bon voyage dinner for a niece who is leaving for college this week.  She's an amazing softball player who was recruited by Notre Dame and has a full scholarship. Talk about the best kind of pay off for a mom and dad who have devoted all their family's time to softball for the last 13 years.  Wow.

In spite of the fun, I'm whipped.  So whipped in fact, that when I sat down at my Mac yesterday, I only made it past uploading the photos (and dumping nearly 700 from my files...) and chose instead to head out to my patio where I raked and trimmed, then planted for most of the day.  The sun was out, a beautiful breeze kept everything from getting too hot, and I was able to unwind.  Fun is not supposed to make you tired is it?  There's just something wrong with that. 

So yesterday, we had leftovers for dinner. Talk about perfect!  There was enough of the BBQ Beef & Slaw to have another round of sandwiches.  I love Sunday leftovers for Monday dinner because there's no mess, and most of the time, the food can be even more tasty after sitting in the fridge for a night.  This is a great meal for outdoor get togethers, tail gate parties if you're a football fan, or just dinner with family, because this is slow cooking at its best, and serious comfort food.  Much of it can be made ahead of time, so it's also excellent when you want to make like *insert current kitchen idol here*  and have everything perfect when your guests arrive.  Of course, that would not be me.  Ever.

BBQ Beef Sandwiches:  Slow Cooked Chuck with Bacon Cheese Slaw

About two hours before the meat goes into the oven, make the spice rub first.

For the spice rub...

1  c. dark brown sugar                                             
2 T ground ancho chile*                                             
  2 T ground California chile*                                             
  1 T Old Bay seasoning                                             
  1-1/2 tsp. paprika                                             
  1 tsp. coarse kosher salt                                             
  1 tsp. ground allspice                                             
  1 tsp. ground coriander                                             
  1 tsp. ground cumin



*Slice open 4 dried ancho chilis and 4 dried California chilis, trim off the tops, and discard with the seeds.  Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat until hot, then press dried chilis on the surface of the pan just until you smell the chili, or hear a snapping, then flip and do the same.  This should take only a  few seconds on each side.  With the processor running, and keeping the two kinds of chili separate, drop the chilis into the processor and run, pulsing occasionally, until well-ground.  This takes about 5 minutes of continuous running.  Empty into a small container and set aside.  You should have about 8 T of ancho chilis.  Wipe out the bowl of the processor and repeat with the California chilis. The pieces will not grind as small as with the ancho chilis, and more pulsing will be necessary. You will have about 2 T of California chilis, depending on the size of the chilis you used.

Measure out all ingredients into a container that can be sealed and mix well. Set aside.

For the Beef...

2    3-lb chuck roasts

Salt and pepper all sides of both roasts, then sprinkle 2 T over each side and rub in.  Cover well, and let sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes, but not more than 2 hours.  While the meat is sitting, prepare the braising liquid.



For the braising liquid...

3  c. dark brown sugar                                             
1 c. white vinegar
1 c. unfiltered apple juice
1  c. beef broth                                             
2 lg. celery stalks, chopped                                             
2 med. onions, chopped                                             
1-1/2 c. chopped cilantro                                             
3 garlic cloves, chopped                                             
2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

Add all ingredients to a large pitcher and set aside until ready pour over meat.

 

Now make the barbeque sauce.
                            
For the Barbeque Sauce...
                                                

4 T ground ancho chiles (see above) steeped in 1 cup hot water 30 minutes                                             
2 c. water
6 T pomegranate syrup or glaze
1-1/2 c. dark brown sugar                                             
3/4 c. unsweetened pineapple juice                                             
1/2 c. light molasses                                             
12 oz. tomato paste

Put 1 cup water in the microwave to heat for 1 minute and drop 4 T of the ground ancho chilis into it to steep for 30 minutes.  Mix all other ingredients in a medium-sized sauce pan and set aside until the chili has had time to flavor the water.  Add the chili water to the pan, and stir well, heating over medium-high heat until the brown sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat to low, keeping at a simmer until it is reduced to about 5 cups, about 15-20 minutes.  Add 4 T of the reserved spice rub, and simmer 10 minutes more, checking occasionally.  Add salt and pepper to taste, or more spice rub depending on you preferences.  Set aside.



Now roast the beef.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F, and position a rack in the lower third of the oven.

In a roasting pan large enough to sit the roasts side by side, pour 2 T olive oil, and on the stove top, brown each roast on all sides until golden, about 4 minutes for each side.  Don't forget the sides.  When the roasts are brown, give the braising liquid a stir to make sure the sugar has dissolved and pour over the roasts.  Cover the roasting pan completely with foil and roast for 2 hours.  After 2 hours is up, flip the roasts (they will already be very tender...) replace the foil, and roast for 2 more hours until meat falls into shreds when poked.  Cool uncovered in the braising liquid for up to 1 hour.

Now make the crunchy slaw and the corn.

For the Crunchy Slaw...

                                                               
8 bacon slices, cooked and chopped                                             
3/4 c. Ranch Dressing                                             
2 T red wine vinegar                                             
1  T honey
3/4 medium head green cabbage, shredded
1 yellow pepper, seeded and chopped
1 orange pepper, seeded and chopped
1/4 head radicchio, shredded
1/2 c. crumbled blue cheese

In a large bowl, mix the cabbage, peppers, and radicchio.  Sprinkle bacon and blue cheese over.  In a small jar, add the Ranch Dressing, vinegar, and honey, put the lid on it and shake well.  Pour over the slaw and mix well.   Set aside.

For the Corn...

kernels scraped from 6 ears of corn
3 cloves fresh garlic, chopped
2 T olive oil
3 T cilantro, chopped
Juice from 1 lime
salt & pepper

Heat a clean, dry cast iron skillet, over medium heat.  When it is hot, add the corn.  Let it sit until it is really sizzling, and stir from time to time making sure it's browning nicely, but isn't burning. Pour over the olive oil and stir, then add the lime juice, stirring again.  Toss in the cilantro, and season.  Set aside.



Now prepare the beef for the sandwiches.

Remove roasts from the liquid and place in a large sauce pan, shredding it into small pieces.  Then, pour the braising liquid into a food processor and process until smooth.  Pour into the pan of shredded beef and add 2-1/2 c. of the barbeque sauce to the pan.  Gently mix the ingredients, and heat over a low flame until hot and ready to serve.



Split 12 (or up to 16) hoagie or kaiser style buns -- toast if you want -- and spoon beef mixture over.  Add some of the crunchy slaw over the top.  Serve with the corn on the side, or, if you're curious, over the top of the slaw.  It's crunchy, it's sweet, it's tangy, and it's pretty messy.  But it's very, very good.




Notes: This really sounds quite involved as I went back through it.  But I've laid it out so that it's doable in steps.  For example, I got everything ready, then marked the recipe so my husband could get the roasts in the oven while I went shopping (some time at the nursery to buy plants).  Just make sure to count those hours because they definitely add up in this recipe.  We planned to eat at 6PM, so had the beef out of the fridge around 11 am and in the oven around 1:00.



The original recipe, featured in the September '08 issue of Bon Appetit can be found here.  The changes I made were purely for convenience -- mainly cilantro instead of parsley in the braising liquid, pomegranate glaze with water instead of pomegranate juice, and white vinegar and apple juice instead of cider vinegar.  The briskets I had to choose from were very small, and chuck is a cut of meat I'm very familiar with (8,000 pot roasts...) so knew it would work just fine. 

I ground my own chilis because I had them.  Remember that Mexican Feast we had not too long ago?  Well, I ended up with lots of chilis, so am finding reasons to use them.  You can find ancho and chipotle powder (NOT chili powder...) with some searching, and interestingly enough, Tyler Florence has a recipe for ancho "powder" here, but it's more of a rub.  All the powder should have in it is anchos.

Although I enjoy a good BBQ sandwich, I prefer mine more tart than sweet.  This was very sweet, as in, the entire recipe calls for 2  lbs. of brown sugar if my math is correct.    The flavor is so intense, I didn't mind, but that's because the slaw on this is what makes the sandwich.  You can actually taste that blue cheese, which was really surprising.  The slaw evens out the sweetness -- thankfully. 

Oh, and the Ranch Dressing was used on the slaw because my husband refuses to eat anything with mayonnaise in it.  Don't even get me started with the idea that Ranch Dressing is essentially mayo based.  I know that.  In fact, I've explained it to him, but logic doesn't win on this one.

The skillet corn is something I've been playing around with since spring.  Sometimes I add jalapenos or green onions -- no matter -- it's really delicious.   

Yes, there's dessert, too, but that will have to wait until tomorrow.  That page up there gives you a hint, though...

                            

                         

               

 

                            

Kitchen Organization Deconstructed (Sort of...)

I'm fascinated by those shows on television that focus on the concept of "before" and "after."  It doesn't seem to matter whether it's about flipping a house, remodeling, landscaping, Gordon Ramsay advising how to turn a restaurant around, and yes, even What Not to Wear -- I guess I'm a sucker for the idea of anything being taken from a classic ugly duckling to a beautiful swan.  Cliche, I know, but it's the closest thing I can come up with right now.

I also love perfectly organized spaces.  It doesn't matter if it's my Mac desktop, or my real desktop, my closet or garage,  I can see what it should look like -- perfectly -- and would love for it all to be just so.

But it all comes to a screeching halt right there, because as much as I can say I crave it, visualize it, and need it, something happens on the way to execution.  Well, at least the execution of the details, because I'm pretty good at making something look very attractive until you look a bit more closely.

I like to blame it on the very real idea that after years and years of being so busy with work, and realizing I'd organize something -- anything -- to avoid doing that work, I had to train myself not to notice.  I learned how to try and stay more focused, ignore dishes in the sink, or a stack of mail, magazines that needed to be gone through, and basic clutter.  I got more work done, I was more content, and my house became a wreck.

I can't stand it, yet I've learned to tolerate it for my sanity.  Okay, so a tad over dramatic, but I'm trying to make a point here.

Now I no longer have the endless work I had to do.  I am fortunate enough to be on the other side of the "If Only I Didn't Have To Work, I Could..." lament I indulged myself with, and now know is a load of crap.  A year and a half have gone by, and it's taken me this long to get around to noticing that I can now obsess until the cows come home about all the picky details my brain wants me to take care of.

I can organize, label, and fuss over details to my heart's content.

But have I?

Um, nope.  Unfortunately, I discovered the insanely addictive wonderful world of blogging a bit more than a year ago, and now I have a completely different area in which to split hairs and fuss over minutiae.

So what does this have to do with food?

It's about my kitchen.

I have a  very nice kitchen.  When we moved to this house six years ago, I left an equally nice kitchen we'd had remodeled several years before.  I left an amazing 36" Dynasty range with an infrared ceramic broiler and burners that put out BTUs that brought true meaning to the saying, "If you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen." 

Then we moved here -- to a house that had a kitchen with 25 year old appliances, an uncalibrated oven that a proper sized turkey wouldn't fit in, and electric cooktop that I couldn't squeeze all the pans I wanted on it at the same time.  I thought I'd never recover.  I'm exaggerating, of course, but it was quite an adjustment.  We moved in right before I took on a enormous new level of responsibility at work, so many of my kitchen things were just put in cupboards and a few years went by before we decided to remodel this kitchen.  It's amazing how well we adapt when we have to, isn't it?  You just learn how far off that oven's temperature is, and do the math every time you bake while wondering whether baking over a camp fire  would be easier.

Three years have gone by, and I've had plenty of time to think about how well this new kitchen works.  I've tolerated the places I chose at the time to put baking items, and serving dishes, or small appliances.  I've also had time to realize after having gone through kitchen remodels twice now, that as much as I can say I like the way the end product looks, I'm probably never going to love the way it actually works.

When you cook as much as I do, the kitchen is rarely neat.  I want everything close by, and don't want to have to pull anything out of a cupboard to reach something else -- and that's what I've been putting up with for three years. (Insert violins here.)  When I come home from the grocery store, I want my food to actually fit in the cupboard, and not have to sit on the floor near the cupboard, since buying less food isn't a practical solution.

What is a practical solution is to get off my rump and reorganize my kitchen.

So that's what I did.  And I'm not 100% finished, but I'll get there.  I hit a few snags along the way with respect to finding the right containers to hold small amounts of opened product, and deciding what needs to stay in the kitchen because it's used, and what needs to go in a closet we're having racks fitted into for that purpose (My husband says we can do this ourselves a la weekend warriors, but trust me, pigs will fly first....)

So here are my before and after shots.  And if you have ANY suggestions that work for you, by all means, let me know.  This is a work in progress.

This is the area above the microwave.  You have NO idea how many times flour or sugar fell out onto my face or the floor.  Really.  Yes, I'm going to HATE having to reacy for that food processor, but it's much lighter than the Kitchen Aid and you should see where that is...

You wouldn't think three people would need a pantry bigger than this, but somehow we do.  Clearly that second shelf needed some serious help.  When you KNOW you bought star anise and can't find it, you buy more.  You know, because you simply can't be with out it.  Because. 

That second shelf looks a bit different, doesn't it?  It's actually pleasant to be able to SLIDE the drawers out now.  What a concept.  Maybe that's what they were designed to do?  Rocket Science, plain and simple.

But wait.  Where did all those messy little bags go?
 

I found the boxes at Ikea -- cheap, but I'm not sure I like them yet.  Definitely an improvement since I now know where all my star anise is.  I better start looking for recipes since I have enough to last for a couple of years.

But there is a domino effect occurring in all this shifting of kitchen things.  I had to move my ceramic baking things into a different cupboard, which forced me to move my oversized plates and platters.

This is sooooooooooooo much better.  It only took me THREE years to figure out that these two twirly cupboards are different sizes and that those large plates fit right in there on the top instead of the bottom of the other.  More Rocket Science.  Who knew?

 

And the second area that helped give birth to this rather late spring cleaning endeavor?  My pan drawer.  I'm sure there's some logic to the fact that if you continue to purchase pans, you'll need more space and that no one but you will be able to figure out how to actually put the pans in there and still be able to close the drawer.  So, two drawers it was, which is what it should have been to begin with.  I knew that.

Criminal, isn't it?

But look now!  Drawer Number One...

   And Drawer Number Two...

 

Now that I've moved almost everything, my husband will have a real excuse to leave things on the counter after he's unloaded the dishwasher.

It cleans up nicely, doesn't it?

The only problem now is...WHERE TO PUT THE STUFF I TOOK OUT OF THE CUPBOARDS...

Chicken and Mushrooms with Mustardy Cream Sauce

I'm sitting with my first cup of coffee noticing that after yesterday's heavy grey gloom, the sun is actually brightening up my kitchen this morning, the patterns of light and shadows I love to watch definitely posing a distraction.  Today would not be the best day for that.  I promised myself I'd sit down, slam out this post lovingly wax over all things food,  and then get on with the last part of the birthday cake I started last night for my middle son who is older than I'd like to say this early in the morning before I've put my eyebrows on.  Happy Birthday, Ryan! 

He's coming over for dinner tonight, and when I asked him what kind of cake he wanted, he said, "Chocolate with chocolate.  You know, chocolate."  Yes, I know.  Trust me.  He's wanted chocolate cake for his birthday for as long as I can remember, and in all these years, he's probably not had the same chocolate cake twice.  Not once has he complained or said, "Mom.  Can't you just make the cake you made last year?"  He'd never do that.  Neither would his brothers.

I've been lucky like that. 

Not only have I been able to try whatever I've wanted, my boys have developed a open mind about food.  Well, open most of the time.  My middle son still jokes about his older brother's questions about dinner.  His plate would be set in front of him and he'd ask,  "Does it have mushrooms?  Are there bones in it?"  It got to the point where, even when pasta was on the plate, he'd still as those questions.

The answer to those questions today is, "Yes, it has mushrooms.  Lots of them.  And no, it doesn't have bones."

I'm on a quest to remake many of the recipes that are buried in my early archives.  It's not because they aren't good recipes, it's more because the photos are just horrible.  The only problem is, each time I begin to redo one, I change things, so can't exactly redo the photos, right?  The nice surprise is, sometimes, an already great recipe is even better.

Jamie Oliver's "My Old Man's Superb Chicken" is one of those recipes.  The tender chicken wrapped around sauteed mushrooms and herbs, all wrapped in pastry, and enhanced by a creamy mustard sauce is heavenly.  But I didn't feel like messing around with pounding the chicken when it came right down to it, nor was I in the mood to wrap the puff pastry around the stuffed chicken this time.  I went for a deconstructed version, almost deciding to bake the pastry squares and place the chicken on them, but have been avoiding bread at dinner if there is another starch on the plate (my husband is on a diet...).  But who's keeping track that there's heavy cream in that sauce, hmmmm?  I used half-n-half instead and it was perfect.

Add some roasted potatoes, and peas and dinner is served, plates are licked, smiles all 'round.  Mushrooms, no bones, and many, many lovely memories. 

Oh, and if you know anyone who's interested in a  young man who likes to talk, let me know.  He's available. 

I'm just sayin'.

Strawberry Jam Bread Pudding

Here's what I've learned during my brioche a tete saga:  1)  I can actually make a cooking plan and stick to it when a party or special occasion isn't involved; 2)  I can make it completely through the second step; and 3) by the time the third step rolls around, the brioche is still in the fridge, wrapped sloppily in plastic, and waiting for, well, step three.

That would be now.

Did you know this brioche recipe can actually hold up after several days, and still manage to make it into a recipe?  Actually, it all worked out well, because I'd been wanting a bread pudding, and since I am sort of a traditionalist (winter comfort food, cinnamon, raisins...) when it comes to that particular type of comfort food, the idea of making one in the summer with fruit was quite novel.

I know.  I'm the ONLY one.

Others have already thought of interesting ways to add fruit to bread pudding, like peaches and raspberries, or lemon and blueberries, and yes, even fruit cocktail.  Like I said.  Interesting.

But I wanted something very simple with ingredients I had in the fridge.

Toasted Brioche with Lemon Cream and Raspberries

I love "last bite," the very last page in Food & Wine each month, and often look there first, wondering what I'll find.  Most of the time, it's something I can't wait to try myself, and have with great results.  Other times, I'm fascinated, and just keep the page open, wondering if I should give it a try, and whether the work will be worth it, waiting until I'm brave enough, or just forget about it. 

Last month, a "Blackberries with Lemon Cream & Toasted Brioche" was featured, and not being one to jump in my car to purchase a brioche even though there's a French Bakery right down the street that I've never set foot in, I decided that if I was going to find out what this particular "last bite" was really like, I'd have to make my own brioche.

Funny how I just happened to have some of my very own brioche...

If you plan this dessert carefully, most of it is ready to go ahead of time.