Sass & Veracity

Demi-glace: A Mother of a Sauce

At some point when you've got as much time as I do on your hands, you get around to cooking something that caught your eye years ago when time was quite the precious commodity.  But years have gone by since then and time does a good job of layering all the possibilities life tosses in our path, so the urge was buried until I saw the December issue of Saveur last year showcasing traditional meat sauces such as charcutiere and bordelaise -- sauces I've made before, but with purchased demi-glace.

There was no reason not to try the demi-glace recipe since time seemed to be the biggest requirement, and it wasn't even focused time.  Thankfully.  How hard could it be to roast a few pounds of bones and then simmer them for a few hours?

Twenty hours, to be exact, and that's just the simmering time.

 

It's not often that I see meat bones in the case at the grocery store, so when I saw a couple of packages, I tossed them in the cart wondering just how many I'd need to make my own demi-glace.  A second glance at the article after I got home informed me I'd need about ten, so I put the bones in the freezer knowing it may be a while before I saw more.

You're thinking I should have gone to the butcher, right?  Yes, I believe I know where one is thanks to a very good friend who purchases lovely cuts of meat there for special occasions.  I still haven't been there myself, however, so the idea of actually picking up the telephone to call and inquire about whether they'd have some bones for me at some point in the foreseeable future appeared far more organized than my serendipitous self seems to be these days.

It's a very sad state of affairs.

But I did happen on a few more packages of beef bones in the next few weeks, so decided that I'd give the recipe a go.

Although there seems to be a bit of variation on how one goes about making demi-glace, essentially, it's made from roasting bones with a small amount of vegetable and tomato, then slowly simmering the bones in a good quantity of water for hours before straining, then reducing.  Some versions require a Sauce Espagnole to be made first, which requires a thickener such as flour, and then that sauce blended with beef stock before reducing.

In consulting Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, there is no simple recipe for demi-glace.  Instead, here is what can be found:

"The classical French brown sauce starts out with a long-simmered brown meat stock that goes into the making of an equally long-simmered, lightly thickened sauce base called an espagnole.  The espagnole is simmered and skimmed for several hours more with additional stock and flavorings until it finally develops into the traditional mother of the brown sauces, demi-glace. But as we are concerned with less formal cooking, we shall discuss it no further." (pg. 66, Vol. I)

Evidently, to some, however,the addition of the thickener is sacriledge and far be it from me to sway from a purist perspective on this.  Besides, making an espagnole first would require additional ingredients and steps -- not something I was interested in. No, I'll save that one for another time.

To make the Saveur recipe, I'd need:

• a very large roasting pan;
• a very large stock pot;
• a chinois; and/or
• a fine meshed strainer.

And I'd need to not mind the scent of roasting beef permeating my house for two days.

Sliders and Bratwurst are Quick Game Day Food

It's Friday, and much of the food world seems to be focused on one thing:  Super Bowl food. Okay, so maybe not, but I had to start this somewhere, right? Maybe it would be more accurate to say 50% of us use it as an excuse to have a party. What would game day be like without food?  We have to have something to munch on while watching those commercials! 

This year, we have no plans to attend or host anything *yes*, but the Pittsburgh Steelers and Arizona Cardinals just might make it a good game for a change. Too often, it's not entertaining in my opinion, so food helps make it an occasion -- and not a fancy one with a lot of prep.  We go easy on the appetizers -- chips, salsa and guacamole -- have a meal at half-time.

It's casual meal usually of chili or ribs.  But it could be this instead: a spin on traditional stadium food, and which can be put out allowing people to graze at their leisure.

Southwest Sliders in honor of the Cardinals...

 

...and Bratwurst Dogs with Peppers & Onions in honor of the Steelers.  

I'm not sure who I'm pulling for, but I am a Zonie by birth.  ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL?

Shepherd's Pie with Beef, Pork and Lamb

It's raining here today, so I'm as subdued as the grey skies.  After two mornings of very early morning walks as I attempt to get back into the "I, too, can be fit!" swing of things, I'm content to sit in the quiet sipping my coffee.  Thoughts come and go but hover around memories of our trip to the UK a few years go -- the winding roads in Wales, ancient castle ruins tucked between soft green hills, engaging after dinner conversation with local farmers at an old country house, and Pub food.   

Last night, my husband's parents came by for an impromptu celebration in honor of my mother-in-law's birthday, and it seemed perfect to make a shepherd's pie.  I love to cook for them, and for years, they've indulged my culinary whims.  When we get together, inevitably, talk turns to travel, and specifically travel to the UK.  My father-in-law has always wanted to go, and so he graciously indulges us yet another sharing of our time there as we think of ways to get him there before too much longer.  He's 80 now. 

Of course the talk turns to food and a pub we enjoyed in Bath.  I don't remember the name of it because we made several attempts before we found one that would allow us to enter, my husband talking to someone inside while my son and I waited on the street.  Although pubs are more accepting of children than they used to be, not all of them are, and it was mortifying to my son that his presence caused us to have to search.  I felt badly for him knowing I would have been embarrassed as well. Finally we found one, and were led to the back, away from the bar to a small room.  So much for my romantic notions of cozy tables, old plastered walls and a roaring fire, no matter if it was the middle of summer with temperatures so uncharacteristically hot that everyone was talking about it.

Thank goodness for the waiter who indulged my husband with good-natured humor in answering a question about the rules of Cricket. He chided us about ordering "extra cold" beer and served us a meal of Shepherd's Pie that was truly memorable. 

Shepherd's Pie is a traditional English dish made of minced meat -- usually lamb -- and vegetables, then covered with mashed potatoes before baking.  If the dish contains beef, then it's referred to as a Cottage Pie.  Regardless, it's comfort food at its best, and one that will leave you smiling well into the evening after the plates have been cleared from the table.  You may have to waddle to bed, however, because it's quite filling.

Steak and French Fries

I've had a little challenge going for myself since New Year's Eve.  To be a tad more frugal during the month of January, I'm avoiding grocery stores and working through what we have in the fridge and the pantry.  To be fair, we all did just safely escape the most food-laden time of year, and I did have a house full of guests, so that means we were very well stocked and I so I have quite a bit of residue.

But it's January 9th and I haven't been to a grocery store for anything.  That has to be a new world record for me.  Seriously.  Going to the grocery store is like entertainment to me, but when I go, I not only purchase what's on my list, I purchase other items that strike my fancy because let's face it:  one can never have a pantry that is too well stocked, right?

The only problem is, the menu is getting a little heavy on the carbs, and when that happens, I crave beef.  Not a hamburger.  Not pieces chopped for a stew.  Nothing with a sauce or that's been marinated.

Steak. Just plain old steak.

So I rummage around in my freezer knowing there's something in it to take care of my craving, and because I'm not Martha, I need improvement in the "buy in bulk on sale, split up and freeze for later" department, so don't always mark my packages.  I am improving, however.  Sometimes, different cuts of beef surface, or the three of us split one if it's a decent size. But it makes no difference to us, because it's steak.

And what could go better with steak than fries?

Have you ever made your very own Pommes Frites?  It's Friday.  Why not turn your kitchen bar into a French Bistro tonight?  Come on.  Liven things up a bit and think of all the money you'll be saving instead of going out.

You could even end up with a bit o' romance in the process. 

Spicy Game Day Chili Beans

Having been a resident of San Diego for so many years, it's impossible not to get caught up in our Chargers even though there always seems to be just as many fans in the stadium for the opposing team as there are Chargers fans.  Lots of people who grew up elsewhere find their way here because of the weather and they rarely leave, but manage to hang on to their old teams enough to drive the rest of us crazy.  Inevitably, a comment is shouted about something to the effect of, "If you're loving your blinking bleebs so much, then why don't you go back to where you came from..." when the visitors are winning, and their San Diego fans are loudly proclaiming their superiority on the field.  Ah, the joys of being sports fans!

Being married to the most intense sports fan you'd ever imagine has helped me understand more about football than I'd have ever known otherwise.  Unfortunately, he's more of a cup-half-empty guy when it comes to sports, and suffers from knowing way too much -- using all the statistics he naturally holds in his brain to calculate possibilities for their athletic demise.   It's a sight to behold, watching his intensity each week, often standing in front of the television with his arms crossed instead of slouched in a chair with a beer.

He's not much of a beer guy.  He likes Coke -- and hot tea.

But he'll be at the game today, so I'll be home with our 16-year-old, cheering for our team with my usual it's not over 'till the fat lady sings attitude when it comes to our Chargers.  And no....I'm not planning on being the singing fat lady.

To spice things up a bit, I happen to have a bet going with a foodie friend Peter over at Kalofagas regarding the outcome of this game today.  His pick is Indy, and I'm saying no way on that one.  The Chargers are going all the way.  They're so due.  Over due.  Peter and I have agreed that should out team lose, we must admit our defeat, worship the winning team, and celebrate the winning city.  I sure hope he's studying about San Diego right now, because he's going to have a lot to write about. 

But now for some real spice.

How about a big ol' pot o' chili for the game?

 

Beef Short Ribs in Red Wine

I grew up eating braised meat.  I don't think it mattered what time of year it was, but at some point during each month, and usually on the weekend, my mom would make what she called a roast.  Although we don't have them as frequently, it is something we enjoy.

Essentially, braising involves cooking in liquid -- but there's more to it than just putting a piece of meat in a pot and covering it with water.  Well, if you want it to taste satisfying, that is.  There are some basic steps to take when braising:  1)  Choose the right cut of meat; 2)  Brown seasoned meat on all sides in a bit of fat; 3) Brown the aromatics;  and 4) Add the liquid and cook low and slow. 

At the expense of sounding like Alton Brown without the scowl, all four of the steps I mentioned are very important, and if one of them is left out, then you'll end up with a grey chunk o' meat -- not very appetizing. 

The nice thing about braising is that the best cuts of meat to use are those which are tough --    which translates to less expensive.  Easy on the wallet.  Cheap.  They're all the parts of the animal that get the most exercise.  Chuck was my mother's cut of choice, but a rump or brisket are also great.  Short ribs are another perfect choice for braising.  They're squarish cuts of beef that include a portion of bone (ribs, right?) and usually come three to four in a pack depending on their size.

When I think of short ribs, I think of gravy and wide, flat noodles.  Completely delicious!

Chunky Chili with Squash and a Rant

If you'd asked me even at age 25, I'd have told you squash wasn't something I thought I'd enjoy eating at any point in my life.  I'd just begun to experiment with zucchini about then and that's only because I had a small garden and harvested a few that were more than a foot long and five inches in diameter.  I quickly became someone who could cook anything with zucchini.

It was the yellow and orange squash I continued to not like the idea of, and I think it may have had something to do with texture.  When I saw it prepared, it was always soft and mushy, and ironically, sweet.  It's always been a challenge for me to consider eating meat or vegetables that have been sweetened...well, as long as nobody counts Sweet & Sour Chicken, right? 

Thankfully, I've gotten past the few issues I've had with squash, so when I saw the copper pot full of glistening "Texas Beef Brisket Chili" on the cover of Bon Appetit last month and realized those orange chunks nestled up against the beef were nuggets of savory butternut squash, I knew what we were having for dinner and quick.

But there was just one thing...this dish was anything but quick.  In fact, it was the epitome of slow and low -- and just perfect for football watching on Sunday.

Grass Fed Chuck Braised in Red Wine

You've more than likely heard by now, but the Foodbuzz Publisher Community was recently officially launched.  I've been with Foodbuzz for over a year now while they've been building their community, and in that time I can say that one of the nicest aspects of the community is the the number of great people I've met who also enjoy thinking about, planning for, and making food. There are other perks; surprizes come in the mail.  How did they know I was such a slob in the kitchen?  Thanks Foodbuzz!

A perfect example of the people who make the Foodbuzz community so worthwhile are Giff and Lisl who author The Constable's Larder.  Recently they sponsored a Low and Slow event where interested folks could submit as many recipes for braised food in a month's time as they wanted.  If you've tolerated my self-depricating sass long enough, then you know I'm constantly planning on thinking about considering the possibility of getting organized with my cooking.  Maybe.  Um, yes.  Since the Low and Slow event was fairly easy to plan for (only a link in the comment box was requested and how nice is that, I ask?) I thought I'd get an early start and submit several dishes.  Well. 

It's Fall everywhere but here, it seems, so I know people are looking for savory meals that languish on the stove and fill the house with tantallizing aromas while the cook cozies up with a flannel throw and a nice cuppa in the late afternoon.  I'm not sure what happened because I did make the food, I did take photos, but somehow I never wrote about any of them until the last minute and submitted one. Outside of feeling completely guilty (I've figured out it's my vocation...) I quickly submitted this recipe a few hours before the deadline and then slinked quietly back to my dark cave.

But guess what? I got an email from Giff buried in the eight-thousand junk emails I weeded through after returning from Las Vegas, and I WON!  I NEVER win anything.  Seriously.  That means I got to choose a cookbook which has already arrived and has already been lovingly oogled for all the savory braises I'll make.  Thanks very much, Giff and Lisl!  And because I honestly made this recipe for your event, I'll share it as well along with another.

There's nothing like a nice braise, is there?  How about a nice hunk o' grass fed beef with some root veggies and red wine?   Perfect for a pleasant weekend dinner and with nearly three hours of cooking time, definitely slow food.  

Spanish Meatballs & Garlicky Greenbeans

Have you been watching Spain:  On the Road Again?  When I saw Mario Batalli with Gwynneth Paltrow in the recent issue of Food & Wine,  I thought, huh.  Okay.  And then I looked at the recipes since that's what life is all about, right?  All that olive oil and garlic...potatoes and rice.

Mmm-Hmmm.

I have found out that at least in San Diego, PBS is running the series  in the middle of the night, so I have set my DVR and have begun to live vicariously through the Foodie Foursome which includes Mark Bittman and a lovely Spanish actress I've not seen before, Claudia Bassols.  Oh, to be cruising through Spain in a caravan of expensive German cars.  Hell.  Just cruising through Spain.  The countryside is gorgeous, and the cooking seriously simple.  I'm loving the entire experience.  In fact, I've ordered the book since my Penelope Casas' La Cocina de Mama has been getting quite the workout lately.

In fact, recently, we had meatballs and I'm left wondering why I never had meatballs when we lived in Spain.  There were meatballs?

I don't think Gordon Ramsay would yell too loudly at me over this one.  You know.  The chef who wrote the book I'm giving away if you've commented and sent in a recipe.  If you can't remember, then click the book on the left.  Time is seriously running out, and if I can't scrape together a decent spread to celebrate my 100,000 visitor which happened yesterday, well.  Get those recipes and photos in everyone.  Everybody needs another cookbook -- especially a big pretty one that's FREE.

Where was I?

Spanish Meatballs and Greenbeans, that's where.  It has comfort food written all over it.

Dry Rubbed Steak and Grilled Corn Salad a Perfect Combo

We see them all the time -- those recipes on the back of boxes in our pantry, or the inside of a chocolate wrapper, or an herb package label.  Do you ever try them?  I do, but it depends on what they are.

Like the one on the back of the Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt box I noticed after my husband said he liked rubs on his grilled meat more than marinade.  It always surprises me when he takes the time to mention something like that because he's pretty accommodating when it comes to eating whatever I feel like cooking, rarely asking for anything in particular. 

We weren't involved in any discussion about dinner plans, or watching a food related show -- he just mentioned it while he was standing at the sink fiddling with his teabag before leaving for work one day.  Go figure.  Sure, I'd made and used rubs before, but thinking about it, knew I used marinades more frequently. 

So how perfect was it that when I went to fill the salt dish that day, Bruce Aidell's Secret Spice Rub,
(which clearly wasn't secret if it was published on the back of the salt box), was staring right at me?  I'd say pretty perfect.  No leafing through cookbooks, no Googling rubs.  I was done and the hunkster would be happy.

By the time I was finished putting the rub together, it wasn't Bruce's any longer.  As usual, I didn't have exactly all his ingredients, so made some changes.  Big surprise, right?  Life is never boring around here.

If you haven't decided what's on the menu for the Labor Day weekend, this is quick and easy.

Kelly's Not So Secret Rub

1/3 c. kosher salt
2 T coarsely ground pepper
2 T brown sugar
3 T smoked paprika
2 T chili powder
1 T dried sage leaves
1 tsp. herbs de provence
1/2 tsp. allspice
2 tsp. fennel
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. dried tarragon
2 T dried minced garlic

Combine all ingredients and mix well.  Store in a well-sealed jar or ziplock bag.

To use, sprinkle generously on both sides of beef and rub into meat.  Wrap meat well and place in the fridge for at least an hour.  The longer it sits, the more intense the flavor of the rub will be.

Grill depending on the cut of meat chosen, and thickness of that meat.  I used pieces of thin cut round steak labeled as for "carne asada," which I hadn't seen before.  And since the price was right, it ended up in my basket.  It was quick to grill, only about 4 minutes on each side, if that.

 

Serve with a nice crunchy Grilled Corn Salad like this one...

Chopped romaine
Sliced radishes
Chunks of fresh tomatoes
Sliced red onion
Cucumber
Two cobs of corn
Feta
Cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
3 T extra virgin olive oil
2 pinches salt

Rub the corn with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.  Grill just until kernels begin to brown and remove to cool.  When it's cool enough to be handled, cut kernels from the cobs and set aside.

On a large platter, arrange the chopped romaine.  Add the chunks of tomato, cucumber, and red onions, then grilled corn.  Sprinkle over the radishes, some feta, and finish up with a bit of chopped cilantro.

For the dressing, squeeze the lime into a small jar and add 3 T of extra virgin olive oil.  Stir rapidly with a fork, add a couple pinches of salt, taste to correct flavor and pour over salad.

To serve, grill some sandwich rolls, place a large piece of steak over the entire roll, then pile on the salad.

Now, chew your way to happiness.

Notes:  This is about as loosey goosey as I get with recipes.  I had the meat in the freezer and knew it would work just fine for the rub.  Just a hint of sweetness, the chili not overpowering, the taragon surprisingly pleasant since I'm not a fan.  Plus, the recipe makes a ton, so you can experiment with ribs, shrimp, or chicken.  It would be terrific on a slow grilled pork roast, too.

I didn't set out to make sandwiches of this, but it just seemed right.  The crunchy cool flavors of the salad were perfect for the spiciness of the meat and everything stayed loaded on the bun, believe it or not.  All in all, a satisfying meal.

And for what it's worth...

We have salad with nearly every meal we eat, so you'd think my fridge would be full of salad dressing.  With the exception of a bottle of Hidden Valley Ranch my son requests because he likes to dip his chips in it, there is no bottled dressing.  I stopped buying it years ago because the over seasoned flavor dominated anything it was poured over.  Plus, the ingredient list left quite a bit to be desired:  high fructose corn syrup on my salad?  No thanks!   

When I make salad dressing, it's basically either lemon or lime and olive oil, just as I've written above.  From there, I alter it depending on what kind of salad we're having, or what the salad will be served with.  I've added honey, mustard, a bit of balsamic vinegar, basil oil, roasted pepper oil, grapeseed oil, garlic, herbs...the list is endless.  It takes so little time and is so worth it because it tastes better, and is more healthy.

One more thing...

I honestly didn't realize who Bruce Aidell was.  Even though I've purchased his brand of sausage many, many times, I never put two and two together.  Now I know.  Last again, I'm sure.