Sass & Veracity

Spicy Game Day Chili Beans

Having been a resident of San Diego for so many years, it's impossible not to get caught up in our Chargers even though there always seems to be just as many fans in the stadium for the opposing team as there are Chargers fans.  Lots of people who grew up elsewhere find their way here because of the weather and they rarely leave, but manage to hang on to their old teams enough to drive the rest of us crazy.  Inevitably, a comment is shouted about something to the effect of, "If you're loving your blinking bleebs so much, then why don't you go back to where you came from..." when the visitors are winning, and their San Diego fans are loudly proclaiming their superiority on the field.  Ah, the joys of being sports fans!

Being married to the most intense sports fan you'd ever imagine has helped me understand more about football than I'd have ever known otherwise.  Unfortunately, he's more of a cup-half-empty guy when it comes to sports, and suffers from knowing way too much -- using all the statistics he naturally holds in his brain to calculate possibilities for their athletic demise.   It's a sight to behold, watching his intensity each week, often standing in front of the television with his arms crossed instead of slouched in a chair with a beer.

He's not much of a beer guy.  He likes Coke -- and hot tea.

But he'll be at the game today, so I'll be home with our 16-year-old, cheering for our team with my usual it's not over 'till the fat lady sings attitude when it comes to our Chargers.  And no....I'm not planning on being the singing fat lady.

To spice things up a bit, I happen to have a bet going with a foodie friend Peter over at Kalofagas regarding the outcome of this game today.  His pick is Indy, and I'm saying no way on that one.  The Chargers are going all the way.  They're so due.  Over due.  Peter and I have agreed that should out team lose, we must admit our defeat, worship the winning team, and celebrate the winning city.  I sure hope he's studying about San Diego right now, because he's going to have a lot to write about. 

But now for some real spice.

How about a big ol' pot o' chili for the game?

 

Spicy Duo: Breaded Calamari and Jalapeno Poppers with Bacon

I've been so jittery the last couple of days.  I know it's the election -- waiting, and waiting to find out.  The feeling is strangely like I felt waiting for Christmas morning to arrive when I was a kid, the anticipation just about doing me in. 

But it's not just the election.  Having to pack four rooms in our house to prepare for a big remodel isn't helping.  It's great to be busy, though,  since the time is flying by.  Each book or knick knack I take from the shelf to pack is accompanied by my nagging alter ego which is reminding me I should have gotten rid of this crap a very long time ago.

And then there's the little matter of a trip I'm taking in a couple of days, leaving the hunkster to finish what I've not managed to do to prepare the house.  Maybe that's why I'm giddy with excitement as well.  I'm headed to the Midwest to meet with several food bloggers.  In fact, it's for a wedding:  Lis' wedding.  You know Lis, right?  Co-founder of The Daring Bakers? La Mia Cucina Lis.   And guess who's making the wedding cake?  Helen.  Helen, Tartelette Helen.  Now how exciting is that?

Seriously exciting if you ask me.  So I'm pretty much a basket case right now, stomach in nervous knots and finishing almost nothing that I start.

Wait.  That sounds somewhat like a normal day now that I think of it.  The not finishing anything I start part.  Whatever...

So food is definitely in the low maintenance zone at our house right now and since the hunkster wanted to know what was on the Election Day menu, I figured Batter Fried Calamari & Jalapeno Poppers would work just fine.  And I have the perfect accompaniment for both -- a sauce made with a bit o' spicy love. 

Chunky Chili with Squash and a Rant

If you'd asked me even at age 25, I'd have told you squash wasn't something I thought I'd enjoy eating at any point in my life.  I'd just begun to experiment with zucchini about then and that's only because I had a small garden and harvested a few that were more than a foot long and five inches in diameter.  I quickly became someone who could cook anything with zucchini.

It was the yellow and orange squash I continued to not like the idea of, and I think it may have had something to do with texture.  When I saw it prepared, it was always soft and mushy, and ironically, sweet.  It's always been a challenge for me to consider eating meat or vegetables that have been sweetened...well, as long as nobody counts Sweet & Sour Chicken, right? 

Thankfully, I've gotten past the few issues I've had with squash, so when I saw the copper pot full of glistening "Texas Beef Brisket Chili" on the cover of Bon Appetit last month and realized those orange chunks nestled up against the beef were nuggets of savory butternut squash, I knew what we were having for dinner and quick.

But there was just one thing...this dish was anything but quick.  In fact, it was the epitome of slow and low -- and just perfect for football watching on Sunday.

Chocolate Chipotle Cakes with Tomatillo Sauce and Cream

There's a chocolate company here in San Diego that keeps me quite happy -- Chuao Chocolatiers.  Actually, it's my husband who keeps me happy gifting me small boxes of their very unique chocolates several times during the year:  Valentine's Day, Mother's Day, my birthday, our anniversary...  I am thankfully rarely out of Chuao chocolate.  I think biting into one of their dark nuggets of wonderfulness is what helped me understand that dessert can be sweet and have a bite -- a spicy bite that is.

So when I saw this Boca Negra Chocolate Chipotle Cakes recipe a few years ago I knew I had to try it.  It reminded me of another Boca Negra I'd tried, but this one had so much more to offer.  Chocolate and chipotle?  With tomatillo sauce?  Oh my.  Sometimes, one has to suspend all thought about preconceived notions and just dive right in with the most open of minds.  It is only then that unexpectedly amazing flavors can be enjoyed.

Who knew?

And wonder of all wonders is that this happens to fit right in with this month's Sugar High Friday event, hosted by the talented Anita of Dessert First. The deadline isn't until Monday, the 27th and I'm so done.  Are you ready to spice up your life?

BBQ Beef Sandwiches with Bacon Cheese Slaw

Nothing like a little blogging break, huh?  It wasn't planned, exactly, but the combination of finally moving my Mac back up to the office from where it sat for a few weeks on the kitchen counter, and a very busy weekend left me completely not interested in climbing the stairs to even check email for the past few days. 

We celebrated my middle son's birthday last Thursday, then went to the races at Del Mar with my mother and father-in-law for a belated Father's Day present.  Although we make it to the races at least once each year, we'd never made reservations at one of the restaurants in the grand stand so really enjoyed having someone take our orders for drinks and food.  Plus, my husband won big twice (pigs must have been flying that day...) so that made things even better.  Saturday we met friends for dinner downtown and then enjoyed the Summer Pops at the embarcadero -- courtesy of a client who couldn't make it that evening.  We were so busy talking on our walk from the restaurant to the performance, we sort of got lost, and had to hire a couple of those bicycle taxis to get us back on track.  Fun, but too much money.  I don't know how those guys stay in business.  Finally, Sunday, I made a bon voyage dinner for a niece who is leaving for college this week.  She's an amazing softball player who was recruited by Notre Dame and has a full scholarship. Talk about the best kind of pay off for a mom and dad who have devoted all their family's time to softball for the last 13 years.  Wow.

In spite of the fun, I'm whipped.  So whipped in fact, that when I sat down at my Mac yesterday, I only made it past uploading the photos (and dumping nearly 700 from my files...) and chose instead to head out to my patio where I raked and trimmed, then planted for most of the day.  The sun was out, a beautiful breeze kept everything from getting too hot, and I was able to unwind.  Fun is not supposed to make you tired is it?  There's just something wrong with that. 

So yesterday, we had leftovers for dinner. Talk about perfect!  There was enough of the BBQ Beef & Slaw to have another round of sandwiches.  I love Sunday leftovers for Monday dinner because there's no mess, and most of the time, the food can be even more tasty after sitting in the fridge for a night.  This is a great meal for outdoor get togethers, tail gate parties if you're a football fan, or just dinner with family, because this is slow cooking at its best, and serious comfort food.  Much of it can be made ahead of time, so it's also excellent when you want to make like *insert current kitchen idol here*  and have everything perfect when your guests arrive.  Of course, that would not be me.  Ever.

BBQ Beef Sandwiches:  Slow Cooked Chuck with Bacon Cheese Slaw

About two hours before the meat goes into the oven, make the spice rub first.

For the spice rub...

1  c. dark brown sugar                                             
2 T ground ancho chile*                                             
  2 T ground California chile*                                             
  1 T Old Bay seasoning                                             
  1-1/2 tsp. paprika                                             
  1 tsp. coarse kosher salt                                             
  1 tsp. ground allspice                                             
  1 tsp. ground coriander                                             
  1 tsp. ground cumin



*Slice open 4 dried ancho chilis and 4 dried California chilis, trim off the tops, and discard with the seeds.  Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat until hot, then press dried chilis on the surface of the pan just until you smell the chili, or hear a snapping, then flip and do the same.  This should take only a  few seconds on each side.  With the processor running, and keeping the two kinds of chili separate, drop the chilis into the processor and run, pulsing occasionally, until well-ground.  This takes about 5 minutes of continuous running.  Empty into a small container and set aside.  You should have about 8 T of ancho chilis.  Wipe out the bowl of the processor and repeat with the California chilis. The pieces will not grind as small as with the ancho chilis, and more pulsing will be necessary. You will have about 2 T of California chilis, depending on the size of the chilis you used.

Measure out all ingredients into a container that can be sealed and mix well. Set aside.

For the Beef...

2    3-lb chuck roasts

Salt and pepper all sides of both roasts, then sprinkle 2 T over each side and rub in.  Cover well, and let sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes, but not more than 2 hours.  While the meat is sitting, prepare the braising liquid.



For the braising liquid...

3  c. dark brown sugar                                             
1 c. white vinegar
1 c. unfiltered apple juice
1  c. beef broth                                             
2 lg. celery stalks, chopped                                             
2 med. onions, chopped                                             
1-1/2 c. chopped cilantro                                             
3 garlic cloves, chopped                                             
2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

Add all ingredients to a large pitcher and set aside until ready pour over meat.

 

Now make the barbeque sauce.
                            
For the Barbeque Sauce...
                                                

4 T ground ancho chiles (see above) steeped in 1 cup hot water 30 minutes                                             
2 c. water
6 T pomegranate syrup or glaze
1-1/2 c. dark brown sugar                                             
3/4 c. unsweetened pineapple juice                                             
1/2 c. light molasses                                             
12 oz. tomato paste

Put 1 cup water in the microwave to heat for 1 minute and drop 4 T of the ground ancho chilis into it to steep for 30 minutes.  Mix all other ingredients in a medium-sized sauce pan and set aside until the chili has had time to flavor the water.  Add the chili water to the pan, and stir well, heating over medium-high heat until the brown sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat to low, keeping at a simmer until it is reduced to about 5 cups, about 15-20 minutes.  Add 4 T of the reserved spice rub, and simmer 10 minutes more, checking occasionally.  Add salt and pepper to taste, or more spice rub depending on you preferences.  Set aside.



Now roast the beef.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F, and position a rack in the lower third of the oven.

In a roasting pan large enough to sit the roasts side by side, pour 2 T olive oil, and on the stove top, brown each roast on all sides until golden, about 4 minutes for each side.  Don't forget the sides.  When the roasts are brown, give the braising liquid a stir to make sure the sugar has dissolved and pour over the roasts.  Cover the roasting pan completely with foil and roast for 2 hours.  After 2 hours is up, flip the roasts (they will already be very tender...) replace the foil, and roast for 2 more hours until meat falls into shreds when poked.  Cool uncovered in the braising liquid for up to 1 hour.

Now make the crunchy slaw and the corn.

For the Crunchy Slaw...

                                                               
8 bacon slices, cooked and chopped                                             
3/4 c. Ranch Dressing                                             
2 T red wine vinegar                                             
1  T honey
3/4 medium head green cabbage, shredded
1 yellow pepper, seeded and chopped
1 orange pepper, seeded and chopped
1/4 head radicchio, shredded
1/2 c. crumbled blue cheese

In a large bowl, mix the cabbage, peppers, and radicchio.  Sprinkle bacon and blue cheese over.  In a small jar, add the Ranch Dressing, vinegar, and honey, put the lid on it and shake well.  Pour over the slaw and mix well.   Set aside.

For the Corn...

kernels scraped from 6 ears of corn
3 cloves fresh garlic, chopped
2 T olive oil
3 T cilantro, chopped
Juice from 1 lime
salt & pepper

Heat a clean, dry cast iron skillet, over medium heat.  When it is hot, add the corn.  Let it sit until it is really sizzling, and stir from time to time making sure it's browning nicely, but isn't burning. Pour over the olive oil and stir, then add the lime juice, stirring again.  Toss in the cilantro, and season.  Set aside.



Now prepare the beef for the sandwiches.

Remove roasts from the liquid and place in a large sauce pan, shredding it into small pieces.  Then, pour the braising liquid into a food processor and process until smooth.  Pour into the pan of shredded beef and add 2-1/2 c. of the barbeque sauce to the pan.  Gently mix the ingredients, and heat over a low flame until hot and ready to serve.



Split 12 (or up to 16) hoagie or kaiser style buns -- toast if you want -- and spoon beef mixture over.  Add some of the crunchy slaw over the top.  Serve with the corn on the side, or, if you're curious, over the top of the slaw.  It's crunchy, it's sweet, it's tangy, and it's pretty messy.  But it's very, very good.




Notes: This really sounds quite involved as I went back through it.  But I've laid it out so that it's doable in steps.  For example, I got everything ready, then marked the recipe so my husband could get the roasts in the oven while I went shopping (some time at the nursery to buy plants).  Just make sure to count those hours because they definitely add up in this recipe.  We planned to eat at 6PM, so had the beef out of the fridge around 11 am and in the oven around 1:00.



The original recipe, featured in the September '08 issue of Bon Appetit can be found here.  The changes I made were purely for convenience -- mainly cilantro instead of parsley in the braising liquid, pomegranate glaze with water instead of pomegranate juice, and white vinegar and apple juice instead of cider vinegar.  The briskets I had to choose from were very small, and chuck is a cut of meat I'm very familiar with (8,000 pot roasts...) so knew it would work just fine. 

I ground my own chilis because I had them.  Remember that Mexican Feast we had not too long ago?  Well, I ended up with lots of chilis, so am finding reasons to use them.  You can find ancho and chipotle powder (NOT chili powder...) with some searching, and interestingly enough, Tyler Florence has a recipe for ancho "powder" here, but it's more of a rub.  All the powder should have in it is anchos.

Although I enjoy a good BBQ sandwich, I prefer mine more tart than sweet.  This was very sweet, as in, the entire recipe calls for 2  lbs. of brown sugar if my math is correct.    The flavor is so intense, I didn't mind, but that's because the slaw on this is what makes the sandwich.  You can actually taste that blue cheese, which was really surprising.  The slaw evens out the sweetness -- thankfully. 

Oh, and the Ranch Dressing was used on the slaw because my husband refuses to eat anything with mayonnaise in it.  Don't even get me started with the idea that Ranch Dressing is essentially mayo based.  I know that.  In fact, I've explained it to him, but logic doesn't win on this one.

The skillet corn is something I've been playing around with since spring.  Sometimes I add jalapenos or green onions -- no matter -- it's really delicious.   

Yes, there's dessert, too, but that will have to wait until tomorrow.  That page up there gives you a hint, though...

                            

                         

               

 

                            

Herby Chimichurri on Grilled Tri-tip Steaks

The dog days of summer are definitely here.  No, there's no heat coming from Sirius, the Dog Star, as the ancients believed, but it does mean quite a bit more.  To me, it's about more than heat and humidity, especially since the average temperature here during August is about 75 degrees F.  And I know you're tired of hearing me say it, but I've earned the priviledge since I sweltered in our East County heat for years before moving to the coast.

At this time of the year, there's a frenetic pace I sense when running errands or shopping.  Everyone seems to be out and about, it takes more than the usual lap around the block to find a parking place, and then it's only a one-hour spot I'll have to squeeze into.  License plates from as far away as New York or Massachusetts are seen here and there, but most are from Arizona. Lots of them. 

The family vacation is over, Back-to-School sales are in full swing, and the few shows we watch on TV are coming to a close.  Ho.  Hum.  The only outlet besides a cool dip in the pool (um, laps?) or a trip down to the cove (make that cold water...) is food.  But you knew that was coming, right?  So to spice things up a bit, here's a new recipe I just tried for chimichurri which is great for all things grilled.

The first chimichurri I made was featured in the now defunct TASTE, a Williams-Sonoma quarterly publication that ran for only two years.  I loved the spicy, herby tang of the not quite marinade, not quite salsa concoction, but lost the recipe when my magazine somehow went on permanent loan to a friend.

Of course, a search ensued for a new recipe -- was Google even around then? -- and I arrived at The Reluctant Gourmet who not only had a traditional chimichurri recipe, but his own rendition as well.  I chose his cilantro version because I always seem to have it around. Since then, I've tried quite a few other versions.  If you Google chimichurri now, you'll get nearly 400,000 results for what is sometimes called Argentine Ketchup.  No, chimichurri doesn't have tomatoes in it, but I have included a few from time to time.

Chimichurri, like salsa, is a condiment that can be made in a variety of ways with an array of ingredients.  Most recipes include parsley, olive oil, garlic, and garlic, but from that point on, anything goes.  Although I know some recipes call for the use of a food processor, I prefer to chop everything by hand so there's less of an emulsion.

If you have an herb garden, or love to hit the farmer's market, chimichurri is definitely a way to spice things up a bit -- especially with this particular recipe.  I happened upon this most recent chimichurri find at Urban Junkie and marked it for later use because of several factors I'd not seen in a chimichurri recipe before:

• the "heat" came from roasted green chilis;
• the oil needed to be warmed; and
• four types of herbs were called for. 

I knew that all the heavenly flavors in the garlic and herbs would be released in the warm oil, so I had to try it.

Notes:

• Good luck not having those flare ups with all that oil!  And make sure you save some chimichurri to slather over the steaks, and dip some crusty bread in.
• I used three green chilis instead of two and the heat was perfect.
• Click the Urban Junkie link above for the recipe so you can see all of the ingredients since I was too lazy to photoshop all of them.
• The original recipe doesn't expect that you peel the blackened skin off the chilis.  If you don't, it will feel like you've eaten a piece of plastic wrap.  I'm just sayin'. 
• Tri-tip roasts and steaks are a big deal at my market right now.  It is a favorite cut for barbeque and takes to rubs and marinades extremely well.  Even more attractive is the cost.  It's nowhere near as expensive as a rib eye or t-bone.  For those of you who aren't familiar with this cut of beef, it's from the sirloin, and is also referred to as a bottom sirloin butt.  Picking up a tri-tip roast on sale and cutting the steaks yourself will save you even more.  If you put the roast in the freezer a bit to firm it up, it will be easier to cut.
• In retrospect, this recipe would make a terrific marinade.  If you're going that route, then only use half of it for that, and save the rest for slathering, dipping, and scooping.  Bathing?
• We are giving this another go tonight with some lovely and huge scallops which should be fairly delectable.
• Clearly, this recipe was excellent. 

NON-Cowboy Caviar: Beat the Heat

When the weather is warmer or more humid than I like, or when I don't want something packed with calories disguised as butter, or cream, or bacon, I crave food that has a bite, some salt, and involves work.

No, the work isn't about the preparation -- it's about chewing.  Chewing, crunching, and savoring the most amazing combination of flavors, that is.

Oh, and little or no heat.  That would be heat from a stove or a grill, because I can't imagine life without the heat that comes from a nice jalapeno.  And since Grace of A Southern Grace is having a little "Beat the Heat" shindig over at her place, I thought this just might be perfect. 

The first time I made this salsa it was the early '90s and I was desperate for food packed with nutrients, and absolutely no fat.  I'd had my youngest son a year earlier, thought I was looking just fine, and then saw a photo of myself at a wedding that rudely informed me otherwise. Where, oh where did that second chin come from?   So, I was hell bent for leather to lose weight and get fit.  No-fat diets were all the rage back then, and I went a bit crazy eating things like fresh strawberries dipped in Cool Whip, and smearing apple butter on my dry toast.  Eating lots and lots of pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil.  And, wonder of all wondrous things, learning how to stomach non-fat milk.  Unbelievable.  For exercise, I took a swimming test, then promptly learned how to row.  You know.  Those long skinny boats that lots of people sit in with the slidey seats?  They all stroke at the same time when that person at the end yells at them?  Yes, those.  I know.  I was 36 years old.  What in hell was I doing?  Well, the other women were my age and older, so that made it easy (such a liar...)  But they were buff, and I was, um...pudgy. 

Where was I?

Salsa. About that time, I started making this salsa. Wait.  Salad.  So, maybe it's a salsa salad.  I think that's the closest name for it, although in years since, I have seen it called Cowboy Caviar, which some people think morphed from Texas Caviar.  Now, I learned what I know about cowboys from old movies, and I'm not, nor ever will be from Texas. And most importantly, I have lived in San Diego for most of my life, so there's no way I'd call my chunky bowl of low carb, low fat flavor either of those names.

Besides, some of the other versions have ingredients that are NOTHING like mine.  They call for:

• Sugar.  Sugar?  Yes, the recipe I just saw on a site that will remain unnamed called for 1/2 cup sugar. *yuck?*  How could you taste anything else?  Why bother to put in the veggies?
• Oil -- 3/4 cup of vegetable oil.  Wow.  That's a ton of oil for anything.  Like a bit of salad with that fat, do yah? 
• Canned tomatoes.  *pauses while supressing a bit of nausea*  Okay, I can see how this might be necessary -- especially in a pinch.  Like when you find out the fresh tomatoes you thought were fresh are moldy.  But only then.  Seriously. *shudder*
• Pickled jalapenos.  I could talk a very long time about this, but will spare you.  Pickled jalapenos and fresh jalapenos have absolutely nothing in common.  Okay, yes, they're the same chili, but that's where the commonalities end.  The only thing pickled jalapenos are used for are nachos.  Especially ball park nachos.  With extra cheese sauce, please.
• Eggplant.  Now this is actually interesting.  And when I made this latest batch of my salsa salad, I did happen to have an eggplant which is quite lonely right now since I've forgotten what I bought it for. But after thinking about it, the eggplant would dominate the flavor and it wouldn't taste like my salsa salad anymore.  Maybe something Italian, though.
• Celery.  Sure, it's crunchy, but nope.  Not in this.  It just doesn't work.  It would change the entire taste.  Celery belongs in other things like my mom's potato salad, and chicken noodle soup or gumbo. School lunch boxes.  I like celery, but not in this.  No way.
• Cabbage.  Hmmm...I can see that the crunchiness is perfect, but in much the same way that celery doesn't work, cabbage isn't quite there, either.  Close, but no cigar.  Cabbage would definitely make it more salad than salsa.  It would be hilarious to see someone balance shards of cabbage on a loaded tortilla chip and actually get it all into their mouth, however.
• Black-eyed peas.  This is what seems to most characterize Cowboy Caviar.  I've never made mine with them, however, since I think of black-eyed peas as belonging in a steamy pot with greens.
• Cumin.  I like cumin and use it frequently.  Since I focus more on the chunky stuff in my recipe than the other ingredients, I haven't thought of using cumin.  It sounds like it would be tasty, though.  So maybe.
• I still can't get over the sugar.  OMG.  Seriously.

But there are other versions that are very, very similar to mine.

What exactly are the rules for my salsa, anyway?  You know me -- they change depending on what I have in the house, and whether I want a salsa or a salad, but the basics are always present -- and one ingredient that shouldn't be left out if you can avoid it.

Kelly's "Beat the Heat" Salsa

For the chunks...

• Fresh tomatoes:   cut in chunks, seeded, or not
• Cucumbers:  peeled or not, seeded or not, English or not
• Onions:  chopped red, green, or both
• Black beans:  canned, cold, drained and rinsed well
• Corn:  freshly scraped off the cob or canned, and yummy if it's grilled or browned in a skillet first
• Cilantro:  Fresh, chopped, stems and all
• Avocado:  Firm and ripe, chopped
• Cotija cheese:  crumbled

For the flavorings...

• Garlic:  Fresh and chopped
• Jalapeno:  Fresh and minced, roasted is perfect
• Lime juice:  Fresh squeezed
• Salt & Pepper
• Salsa Verde:  Canned, and Embasa if you can find it.  Absolutely have to have it. *swoon*

Other ingredients I've added from time to time...

• Rice:  cooked and cooled
• Feta:  instead of cotija
• Green chilis:  canned, drained, chopped
• Peppers:  orange, yellow, or both, seeded and chopped
• Corn:  canned, Green Giant confetti style
• Chicken:  cold chunks
• Olive oil:  2-3 T when I'm making a salad

Chop and layer all the chunks at least 30 minutes before serving.  Trifle bowls are great for this.  Mix the other flavors in a small bowl and let sit until about 10 minutes to serving.  When you're ready to serve, pour the sauce mixture over the ingredients and toss well.  Taste and adjust flavor to your liking.  Mine usually needs a bit more salt, more heat, and added tang. 

If you're making it for the family, then just mix the ingredients in a bowl without messing around with the layers.  Most of the time, we can't wait, so dig in with a tortilla chip that can stand up to shoveling it in our mouths without snapping off.

I've taken this to Little League team parties and have seen the kids demolish the bowl in record time.

Also good on...

• Grilled chicken
• Grilled seafood
• Carne asada
• Mixed Green salad
• Crostini

Definitely NOT Cowboy Caviar.  But I'll bet it would make Clint's day.   

Tangy Tomatillo Salsa

Since I've taken a gander at the posts I have looming ahead over the next couple of weeks and have somewhat measured their sugar content, I decided to actually keep my commitment of posting a few of the Rick Bayless recipes I've been enjoying.  And since I'm a huge fan salsa fan, that seems to be a good place to start.

This one's a breeze -- especially if you're someone who enjoys great salsa.  Well, now that I've said it, I have to qualify it.  Great salsa actually has the flavor of the ingredients, and not so much salt and heat that you can't taste anything else.

I'm not opposed to heat, but at some point, what's the point?  Is there a point? 

To be a great salsa, a few qualifications need to be in order:  1) It's perfect with tortilla chips whose only purpose is to scoop large quantities of it into one's mouth; 2) It has lots of texture; 3) It tastes great with eggs, chicken, pork, fish, or beef; and 4) When nobody's looking, you can eat it with a large spoon.  No sharing.

Not very scientific, but that just about covers it, don't you think?

The nice thing about this particular recipe is that you can alter it however you like.  And I probably have, but may not be able to tell you exactly how.  I don't do this on purpose to torture anyone.  If anything, it's simply to promote the idea that you don't have to make anything exactly like it was written.  Well, unless you're baking.  That's a whole different solar system. 

Bayless uses this salsa with many of the dishes featured in Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen. 

Essential Roasted Tomatillo-Serrano Salsa

1 lb tomatillos (about 10-12, husked and rinsed)
Fresh serrano chiles (about 5 depending on your desired level of heat)
2 lg. garlic cloves, unpeeled
1 small white onion, chopped
1/4 c. chopped cilantro
Salt (to taste)
Sugar (to taste, about 1 tsp to balance flavors)

Under your broiler about 5 " from the heat source, roast tomatillos by cutting in half, and arranging cut side down on a baking pan either oiled or lined with parchment. When the skins blacken and blister, turn them over and continue to roast on the cut side,  about 4-5 minutes.  Remove from the oven and cool completely without removing them from the pan.

In a dry iron skillet, roast the garlic cloves in their skin, and the whole chilies until blackened in spots about 10 minutes.  Cool and then remove garlic skin, as well as the chili stems (and seeds if you wish).

In the bowl of a food processor, pour the tomatillos and all their juice on the baking pan, along with the garlic and chilies.  Pulse until well mixed, but still coarse in appearance.

Scrape into a bowl, and if desired, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water to thin.  Stir the onion into the salsa and add the cilantro, stirring to blend.  Season with salt and sugar according to your taste.

Notes:  So I didn't make this exactly as he said.  You're surprised, right?  I though so.

• If you've never worked with tomatillos (which are not green tomatoes...), then the outer husk and stickiness of the fruit may seem strange.  You want to choose fruit that is bright green and with green husks.  If left to sit, the husks will begin to brown and the fruit to shrink.  "How does she know this?" you may ask.  You are learning that I have a problem with having food around and waiting in line to be cooked somewhat like planes in a holding pattern above a busy airport, yes?  It's a problem.  Actually, it's important to know because at the market, often, the husks are already brown and papery, and although this isn't horrible, the tartness when the fruit is at its peak is what you're looking for.  After removing the husk, wash the fruit with water and gently rub.

• I usually have dried chilies around, and didn't have fresh serranos (which are pretty spicy by the way...) so used 2-3  Chilis de Arbol instead.  They're pretty easy to pick up at regular grocery stores and come in plastic bags packed with enough to keep yourself in salsa for the rest of this century.  I split them and pressed them into the skillet to roast alongside the garlic, keeping the seeds, discarding the stems.  I didn't hydrate them like you normally would.  Sitting in the salsa softens them up.

• I didn't add the water.  I love chunky salsa.  I should have tried it, but I just felt that it would water things down.  When I make tomato salsas, I use either lemon or lime juice.  Never water.  The tomatoes make their own juice.

• I used fresh green onions because I enjoy their flavor more than that of white onions.  I also enjoy their texture in salsa in general.

• I used about  1/2 cup of cilantro, because I'm crazy about cilantro.  Love.  It. 

• If you're still not one to enjoy spicy food and are completely paralized about the concept, then you've not even read this, but for what it's worth, use red jalapenos.  Use fresh ones, roast under your broiler or on the open burner of a gas stove until black, wrap in a towel for about 10 minutes, then peel, split, remove all seeds, membranes, and stem, then chop and only as much as you can enjoy in the salsa.  Chilis are extremely good for your body, so give them a try.

• I served this salsa on chicken tacos...YUM!

I have a bowl of tomatillos sitting on my counter right now, just dying to be this salsa...And a fresh bag of tortilla strips.

Now, all I need is a margarita.

Oh, and if you'd like to try another version of a tomatillo salsa, I made this Salsa Verde for the yummy Grilled Fish Tacos my friend made at our recent Mexican Feast.  It's good, too, but I like the version above better.  The Grilled Fish Taco recipe is excellent!

Chipotle Glazed Country Pork Ribs and Beans

From time to time when reading what others write about food -- whether printed on paper or published on the web -- I've come across a person here and there who comment about what they describe as pretentious food.  It always causes me to stop and wonder what that might be, knowing that everything is relative.  Pretentious to one person may be another's idea of food heaven, and I'm not sure that I consider anything pretentious about food.  To me, food is somewhat like art or music, its connotation different depending on the artist, the style, and even the time and place it was first enjoyed. 

As much as I can say that I may not enjoy all varieties of any of the above-mentioned types of creative expressions, I do appreciate that someone created it, and that others consider it a favorite whether I like it or not.

That philosophy is most likely what allows me to enjoy eating occasionally at restaurants that serve small amounts of food perfectly displayed on large plates that cost more than I should be able to afford.  If anything bothers me, that would.  The price.  But I've learned over many years, that excellent food has often been prepared with finely honed skills, and superior products.  Who am I to do anything other than savor the experience when I can?

I appreciate those opportunities even more because I was raised on very simple food that was comfortingly flavorful.  We were bony things growing up, well, except for my sister, who ironically is the thin one now.  So my mother fed us food that others describe as something that would stick to our ribs.  As my dad would say, "For dinner tonight, we're having hundreds of wonderful things." 

We quickly learned that meant beans.  Pinto beans cooked slowly in a very large pot.  Definitely anything but pretentious!  The recipe most likely came from the bag the beans came in with a touch of this and that from my mother or grandmother. The meal usually included coleslaw, rice, and biscuits if we were lucky.  It was heavenly.

Now, when I make a pot of beans, it includes my own touches, of course.  And most often, we have some sort of meat or barbeque alongside.  It's not quite as satisfying as my mother's , but you know how memories are.  They sort of improve with age.

Courtesy of Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen, I've adapted his "Chile-Glazed Country Ribs" or Costillas Adobadas recipe for you here, as well as a rendition of our family's Pinto Beans.

 My Pinto Beans

1 lb. dried pinto beans
1 lg. onion, quartered
3 lg. cloves garlic, peeled
3 pieces thick bacon
2 green chilies, roasted, peeled and seeded

garnish of cheese & cilantro

Rinse and examine beans to remove any small stones.  Pour into a large pot and cover with boiling water by about 2 inches.  Let sit for at least an hour to soften the beans.  It's fine if they soak longer.

Pour off water.  Cover beans with fresh water.  Add onion and garlic and bring to a boil before turning down to a low simmer.  Cover and cook for about 1 hour.  After that time, check the consistency of the beans by tasting one for texture.  You want the skin firm, but there shouldn't be a crunch.  Add the bacon and the green chilies, and season with salt & pepper.  Replace the lid and continue cooking over a very low heat, making sure the beans are simmering for about 30-45 minutes. Correct seasoning and serve with your choice of cheese and a sprinkle of chopped cilantro.

While the beans are soaking before you've begun to cook them...

Make the marinade for the ribs.

Chipotle Glazed Pork "Ribs"

4 lbs. pork shoulder "country ribs" (boneless slices)
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
5 chipotles in adobo
3/4 tsp. dried Mexican oregano
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/8 tsp. pepper
pinch ground cloves
two pinches ground cumin
2 T white wine vinegar
1/4 c. water
1-1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
1-1/2 T honey

To make the marinade, roast the garlic in the skin by heating over medium heat in a skilled until blackened in spots.  Let sit to soften, then peel.

In the bowl of a food processor, place chipotles, peeled garlic, oregano, cinnamon, pepper, cloves, cumin, and vinegar.  Process, and add 1/4 water as you go, until the mixture is a smooth puree.  Strain through a strainer for a finer texture if you wish.

Brush pork with marinade, reserving about half.  Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably as long as it takes for the beans to cook.  Bayless suggests that overnight is fine.  To the reserved sauce, add  1-1/2 T honey and mix well.  Set aside.

To cook the ribs, preheat oven to 325 degrees F.  When the oven is hot, transfer the meat to a large oven proof dish, juices and all.  Pour in 1/4 c. water, cover with foil and bake for about 45 minutes.  Remove from oven, baste with the reserved sauce and put back in oven for an additional 10-15 minutes uncovered.

Pour off excess juices, turn oven up to 350 degrees F, and brush with sauce.  Return to oven for an additional 10 minutes until meat is dark and glossy with the sauce.

Serve.

Notes:  I was going to put these on the grill and cook them very, very slowly.  Alas, the propane tank was empty, and no, nothing will get me to drive down to The Home Depot if I don't have to.  My oven works just fine!   These "ribs" are so moist and tender, the sauce not too spicy, and are well worth trying.  I love this particular cut of meat.  It's usually not expensive, and lots can be done with it.  It's perfect for this dish.

With respect to the beans, the turn out a bit differently each time I make them.  Sometimes they're more soupy, and others, they're firm and in a cloudy thin broth.  No matter.  They're beans.  Have fun playing around with them.  And if you've never made a pot of pintos, you should try.  They're hundreds of wonderful things good for your body!

Pea Shoot Salad with Bacon & Lime

I can't even tell you how many times I've seen recipes for salads that call for pea shoots and I've just just flipped the page knowing I wouldn't be able to find them without going out of my way.  Can you EVEN imagine life without pea shoots?  I mean, come ON! 

Talk about spoiled. 

If I have to go out of a five-mile radius of my home, fuhgeddaboutit. So when I get through the checkout and the clerk mechanically inquires about whether I was able to find everything I needed, I usually say yes, knowing that I'm the odd ball who buys all the strange produce, and they don't really want to know why I can't find fresh morels.  Yanno?

But when I saw the Crunchy Asian Salad with Honeyed Bacon mmmmm....bacon....in the March '08 issue of Food & Wine, I decided I was on a mission.  I had to find some pea shoots.  That meant heading for Whole Foods first, since they're the grocery store that usually has the specialty produce I need.  U.S.U.A.L.L.Y.

I headed straight for the produce section, and lo and behold, with little effort hunting, there they sat in little rectangular boxes:  the elusive pea shoots.  Go figure.  They looked like radish sprouts with really long stems...erm...shoots.  I glanced around for the price and never did find a tag so really don't want to know what I spent for them.  I picked up a couple of packages and wheeled away, giddy that I'd be able to experiment with something that looks like the weeds I get in my garden after a good rain and a few days of grey skies.  Who knew I'd not need two whole boxes of those cute little greens that taste exactly like snow peas.  Nice.  Fresh.  Something my menfolk would call "feed."

I knew the salad required Chinese five-spice powder as well, and I guess finding pea sprouts used up my good fortune, because Whole Foods had none.  It figures.  I decided it was no big deal and thought I'd find a recipe on line that would get me close enough.

Chinese five-spice is a combination of well, five spices:  szechuan peppercorns, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and fennel.  And if you're someone who has a pantry like me -- ahem -- (I can talk about this at length later...) then making your own Chinese five-spice powder is something quite feasible.  Whether you can actually find what you need when you need it is another story entirely.  Except I didn't have star anise. 

I know.  It's pretty shameful.

I improvised.  So, what's new?

Regardless, this is my official entry to "Waiter, there's something in my..." hosted by Andrew at Spittoon Extra...

Pea Shoot Salad with Bacon & Lime

2 slices bacon
1 T. honey
1 T. real maple syrup
1 T soy sauce
1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
3 T olive oil
2 T fresh lime juice
1/2 tsp. finely grated lime zest
1 T Asian fish sauce
1 tsp. red chili paste
salt & pepper to taste
1/2 lb. snow peas
2 c. pea shoots
2 T torn basil leaves
2 c. spicy salad mix (purchased variety of spicy greens)
3 radishes, thinnly sliced

For the bacon:  Mix in a small bowl, the honey, maple syrup and soy sauce.  Brush onto bacon slices and place under the broiler in a pan that will allow the fat to drip away from the bacon.  Keep an eye on it, as it will burn easily.  Broil until crisp, then place on folded paper towels to cool.

For the salad:  On a serving platter, place the spicy greens.  Tear the basil and sprinkle it over the spicy greens.  Layer the pea shoots on top.  Slice the snow peas into pieces and sprinkle above the pea shoots.  Slice the radishes and quarter the slices.  Sprinkle those over the snow peas.  Slice the bacon into thin diagonal pieces and spread those on top.

For the dressing:  Mix the olive oil, lime juice, lime zest, fish sauce and chili paste until well combined.  Drizzle over salad and serve more on the side if desired.

Notes:  Oh. My.  This is a really spectacular salad.  Even if you excluded the bacon, the dressing is very good, and the crispiness of the veggies, the spiciness....Mmmm...I loved it!  So did the menfolk, and I'm reminding you that one of them is not quite 16. I'm wondering about sauteed shrimp with this already.  For the Chinese five-spice powder, I left out the anise.  What's my rationale?  Fennel is very close in flavor (to me...) so I added a bit more fennel.  Oh.  And some cardamom. In other words, experiment.  Or make sure you have Chinese five-spice powder in your pantry.

And just in case you don't think adding bacon to this salad is enough, we had it with flat-iron steaks seared just right with some some Ichimi Togarashi.

Yes, it was in my pantry.

What can I say?